• Braided lines and Fluorocarbons will slice your hands to pieces and for those that use their hands without gloves on the larger Saltwater reels as a drag shortly will find out when the blood drips on that nice white boat.  
  • Another problem is tightening a spliced line.  Wet the knot and wrap the two sides on the two handles about three turns.  Saves fingers. 
  • Thats rubber shrink tubing on the out side so even braid doesn’t slip when pulled tight
  • When separated the two pieces will float!  
  • Only tool needed is a PVC cutter or saw and a drill to make pilot hole for the screw eyes. Use either stainless, or marine with a nut.
  • Two feet 1/2 inch PVC,  eight caps, (Un threaded just caps)  glue for PVC four screw eyes and shrink tubing. Glue is obviously last step…
  • One of the mates down at the dock just used a length of para-cord and made a nice knotted necklace instead of that little carabiner  as he works on a commercial tourist fishing bay boat and always tying lines, he thanks me every-time he sees me.  Around his neck and about six inches over his belt.  Cost about five bucks for two pair. Give one to a mate, you’ll have a friend for life and really tight knots.


A line removal device thats waterproof, fast and your line can be washed on it.  It’s made from an inexpensive electrical cord reel from Amazon but sold in most big box or hardware stores in the garden or electrical department.

  • I took a simple electrical line holder from Amazon for five dollars and change.   
  • I corrected the sloppy molding by nerds and ends by trimming with a Box Cutter and file  ( No cost, not for esthetics, couple sharp edges)
  • I corrected the sloppy crank with two washers and some grease.  ( No cost)  
  • I added a ten inch stainless bolt drilled through the handle part, lock washers and connected it to a Manfrotto Super Clamp from my Photo Studio.  You can use any kind of clamp you wish. Just use your imagination. 
  • Note:   I used one marine grade stainless bolt, nuts and now you can dip and dunk expensive fly lines after saltwater usage.
  • A touch of axel bearing ( I have aircraft grade lubricant for airplane landing gear) hard stick grease or similar on the track and VOILA! You have a great line changer, storage and cleaner device and two make moving lines fast and easy.
  • A second gripper holds the reel, photos coming of “ CLAMBO” the reel holder.


The Spin-A-Rooni Brass Body Shiner

Degree Of Difficulty:   0-.2

Cost:  .15 to .35 Cents

Parts List:  One 1/8 Rivet, One piece Shrink Tube 

Bottom Line:  Excellent Results


Tech Support:  24/7/365 Absolutly none whatsoever.   No parts, send me a self postage envelope and I’ll send you the parts built.  Enclose a few bucks by check for St. Judes for Children, a charity which I support if you are inclined to help  

Genius’s Note: Many lures I rebuilt had brass bodies and needed polishing.  This took about two minutes to design,  build and finished ten lures about in an hour.  After they’re polished I clear coated them, with Sally Hansen Top Coat worked fine.  I also used a fine brush and red striped some of the bodies in the groves and then clear coated after they dried.

I made them in many sizes from metal stock to paint lure bodies with and added a DIY cheap drying rack made from a pair of bookshelf stoppers and a bunch of bankers clips…

The Shrink Tube Keeps The Body 

On The Mandrel From Moving… 

Cheap Three Dollar Dryer Stand Using 

Two Bookends Mated Together With Pop Rivets

And Simple Bankers Clips

More Information On The Ring Vice Coming…